Çirali
(Pronounced: Chi-raa-lugh)
The village of Cirali is located off the main highway between Antalya
and Kas, the windy Cirali road descends down a mountain and into
a lush valley where one notices a change of climate and a denser,
slightly more tropical flora. The village itself consists of numerous
basic guest houses and little hotels, there are a handful of basic
shops, markets, restaurants, cafes and a car rental firm. There are
no ATMs and there is no buzzing night life. At one end of the beach,
towards the "Olimpos"
end, there are several cafes that are popular with weekenders from
Antalya city. The other end of the beach is never crowded, even in
peak season.
Olympos
Beach
The most striking element in Cirali is Olympos Beach. Surrounded
by glorious mountains, blessed with crystal clear waters and so large
it never feels crowded even in peak season. The beach is under protection
as it is a nesting ground for sea turtles. As such, you will not
find any banana boats or para gliders anywhere in sight. Heaven! If
you are lucky, you may even spot a turtle whilst snorkelling between
May to July.
The Ruins of Olympos
As Bellerofon Hotel is situated on Olympos Beach, you will no doubt
spend many wonderful hours of relaxation there. However, be sure
to take the time to stroll to the other end of the beach and turn
right into the valley of Olympos in order to explore the discreet
ruins of this former Lycian port city. The ruins are hidden in
a sub tropical jungle amongst over grown vines and trees and are
simply a joy to explore. As you enter the valley from the beach,
there is a small admission charge. You will also see that many
of the buildings are sign posted.
Chimaera
High above Cirali along the slopes of Mt. Olympos is the Chimaera,
known in Turkish as Yanartas or Burning Stone. It is the stuff
of legend! Natural gas seeps out of the earth and inflames on contact
with air. Ancient people attributed the flames to a fire breathing
monster. This is a must see! Better to go after dark and bring
a torch! The stepped climb to the flames is tough but with regular
breathers along the way it should not be a major problem. Take
a taxi from Bellerofon to the bottom of the hill, about 7 minutes
drive or you could walk it in 30 minutes or so. During the climb
up mind your step and watch out for slippery stones. With Turks,
is has become somewhat of a tradition to cook Turkish spicy sausage
or "sucuk" on the flames. Coupled with a bottle of red
wine it makes for a great night-time picnic.
Ulupinar
Up in the mountains above Cirali is Ulupinar, take a drive there
or if you are feeling adventurous you could even walk. This is
a lovely shaded, pine forest landscape where villages and small
restaurants are jotted around fresh water falls, rivers and streams.
Ulupinar is a wonderful place to go for lunch. Specialties include
fresh trout. On hot summer days, the ice cold mountain waters cool
the air for a refreshing lunch.
Phaselis
Another set of ruins, including an impressive theatre, await you
at Phaselis, a short drive along the main road heading north towards
Antalya. These ruins are better kept than those at Olympos and are
set in a wonderful natural harbour. If you hire a car, this will
be a pleasant half day outing. The ruins are sign posted from the
main road.
Kekova Boat Tour / Myra & Demre
Along the beach you may see advertisements for boat excursions. Though
the local boat tours are great the more impressive tour is that
of Kekova Island. This involves a 2 hour drive along the coast.
The boat excursion takes in the Sunken City, Byzantine ruins partly
submerged under the sea, and Simena Village with its wonderful
cliff top castle and amazing collection of Lycian tombs. On the
way back to Cirali you should stop in Demre and Myra. The ruins
at Demre are most impressive, the theatre is in fine condition
and the rock tombs set into the mountains are a sight to behold.
In Myra, just down the road, you have the opportunity to explore
the church of St. Nicolas, the original Santa Claus. Whilst we
would recommend a locally arranged tour for this day out, you can
of course rent a car and do it all yourself. Take the main highway
South towards Kas. Boats can be boarded in Ucagiz or Kale.
Car Rental & Driving
Your host at Bellerofon, Akif, will be able to assist you with car
hire if you wish. There is a local firm in Cirali that has a reasonable
range of vehicles and competitive prices. Alternatively we can
arrange it for you before you go to ensure you get a vehicle. We
strongly recommend that you drive only during daylight hours. The
roads in Turkey may be unfamiliar to you and this is a precaution
worth taking, visibility at night is not great.
Further Reading
The Lycian Way
Kate Clow’s excellent Lycian Way book presents many great walks
around the Lycian peninsula. The book includes a good map and useful
hints about the area.
Lonely Planet - Turkey
Of the many guide books on offer, this is one of the best.
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